century separated technologies
- May 7th, 2014
- Posted in diy . studio
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I decided I liked how the LEDs looked where they were in the photo from yesterday, so here’s how I made a more permanent version using 100 year old knobs from knob-and-tube wiring!

The turns are knobs, pulled out of a 1911 house. The supports between long horizontal sections are foam core. To show a bunch of the colours, I decided to try panorama mode on the phone while the LEDs were in colour-cycle mode. It kinda worked, but really does more “look where Apple takes its samples” than describe how it looks in person. Still, it’s kind of cool:

And here’s what it looks like with the baffles put back into place. Only, not actually rainbowy all at once like this, it’s cycling through each of these colours as I pan the camera. Still, you can see how the shelf underlighting section works:
Finally, here’s a still shot, with only one colour, in this case GREEN! It’s actually greener in person than this, but my cell phone amps that up to white because it does and I can’t stop it.
People asked in comments yesterday how much power it draws. Well, it depends upon the mode. The green above is drawing about 10 watts. It draws as little as 5 watts while on, and 1.2 watts when “off” but listening for remote. At full brightness white, it draws nearly 40 watts. The colour-cycles draw anywhere from 18 to 38 watts, so that probably averages around 28.
Make sure if you do this that you’ve got a power supply capable of handling that 40 watts, and test it – the supposed 52-watt Radio Shack 12V power supply I had on hand blew out in 10 minutes! Badly done again, Admiral Shack! This one seems better, despite being rated for less.
I definitely want to order more of these, they are awesome. And they really do set a nice mood. If they blow up, I’ll be sure to post about that, too. 😀
Oh, a small construction detail: the underlighting is held on with the adhesive-backing the tape comes with. But the adhesive backing is… disappointing. So it’s got almost-invisible white-head sewing pins reinforcing it every 10cm or so. I’m hoping the sticky backing will stabilise over time and not degrade – it didn’t stick to the knobs at all, and I had to tie the tape down with clear plastic wire.
2 comments on Livejournal; 4 comments on Tumblr; 5 comments on Google+.
Not all foam tape is created equal. As is so often the case, 3M, the Gandalf of adhesive technology, makes really good stuff. They have ‘regular’ and ‘extra-sticky.’ The windows on the Burj Dubai (and most other skyscrapers) are fastened to the building with foam tape.
Dave: this sticky backing actually claims to be 3M – but I suspect that may be a lie. If it turns into a problem I’ll definitely get some of the better foam.